ACV Request, 2003 Mazda 6i, pre-appraisal by Liberty

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 2:53 pm   Post subject: ACV Request, 2003 Mazda 6i, pre-appraisal by Liberty  

Hello,



Great forum you folks have here. Hoping for a little help & advice that you all are so generous with!



Hit a deer last week - damaged the front right and right side of my 2003 Mazda 6i and made the hood pop up, smashed the headlights (and possibly bent some components in radiator/piping area - can't tell, because we didn't want to pop the hood and have it not close again!). Basically enough that the local (not the Liberty Mutual recommended) body shop a mile from my home was confident it was

a. Undrivable

b. Likely to be totaled based on his quick notepad estimates of value and repair costs (headlight cluster, front bumper, sport grille, entire hood smashed in, mirror housing cracked, glass fell out/hanging, right passenger door also impacted)



Called Liberty, who were nice enough to agree that I should park it at home, instantly set up a rental (I have coverage) and scheduled to have an appraiser come out this week (likely next 2 days) to look at it and determine repair-worthiness.



From doing some reading, I understand that the appraisers, while good at their job, are often in a rush and may err on the lower side on their repair cost (or, if need be) total (replacement?) cost estimates, and it is good to be prepared with pricing on likely replacement cars as similar to one's own, as possible and also point out all the pros/features/OEM add-ons they may skip/not notice and not factor in when determining the 'ACV'.



Also, this will likely help if I know what to expect and don't have to go back & forth negotiating numbers with them too many times! I'm not a fan of driving a rental, feels like living out of a suitcase! Not looking forward to car-shopping or waiting for a weeks-or-month-long repair, but in either case, I want it all done sooner than later, before winter sets in!



So here's as much info as possible about the car: (I'll skip how awesomely well it has been maintained mechanically - I know synthetic oil/fluids/flushes don't help with ACV!)

- market - Baltimore, Maryland

- 4 cylinder Mazda 6i

- 122500 miles (I know this is slightly above average!)

- Manual Transmission, 5 speed

- Leather seats

- Sunroof

- MP3 CD and Tape player upgrades

- 6 speaker sound

- Trunk cargo tray organizer and cargo bed/tray (these two added up to over around $400 when new)

- Tires less than 20K miles, 40-50K expected life.

- Alloy Wheels

- Sport Package (side sills, spoiler, front air dam all Mazda OEM equipped)

- Mazda OEM Body colored Sport Grille

- No aftermarket work EVER done

- No previous accidents/repair

- Paint well maintained but the hood/bumper show highway rock chips/nicks as would be expected

- I have an after-market/Thule roof rack and bike stand on the roof as well, but will likely remove it for use on a replacement, rather than let the insurance pay itsdepreciated value.



From browsing cars.com, autotrader and newspapers, there are a few near-identical replacements

- less (85K) miles but automatic, cloth 2003 Mazda 6i : $7K

- higher (150K) miles, cloth, OK condition inferior to mine, none of the upgrades: $4.6K



The numbers are disappointing because I know how good the car is and how well I've maintained it, but at least I'll be prepared.



Thanks for your help!


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tishoo
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:50 pm   Post subject:   

Quote:
I understand that the appraisers, while good at their job, are often in a rush and may err on the lower side on their repair cost (or, if need be) total (replacement?) cost estimates,




That's certainly a diplomatic and polite a way of putting it as I have ever heard.



You can look up some values online at www.nada.com and www.edmunds.com (use true appraisal) Edmunds asks for size of alloy wheels, stereo options, plus many other additions to get a more accurate value and may even account for your zip code. Edmunds also has more break downs for condition of vehicle than online nada or blackbook



Black book places clean value at 9025, -650 wo autotrans, +250 moonroof, +50.00 alloy wheels, +250 leather, +150 sport for what's behind door number 3 and a grand total of "oh wait" before we go to door number three those pesky mileage deductions are" -1650.00 for a value of 7175.00.


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MikeoftheOzarks
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 9:30 pm   Post subject: Thanks!  

Appreciate it, Mike - that was quick!

Good to know something like Nada will be used & standards followed.



So other than having a few comparative car listings available, and a comprehensive list of my options/features, there is nothing further I should have to do/prepare before my (hopefully) smooth and pleasant interaction with the appraisal department, is there?



I am almost dreading having to consider car shopping, this car has been so reliable (and fun), but I know that decision is out of my hands now!


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tishoo
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:53 am   Post subject:   

One way to look at it is that you are getting fair market value of your vehicle. If you were looking to trade in at the present time, you would only get credit for trade in value of your vehicle (substantially less) on the purchase of a new or newer purchase. A dealer would never give you the fair market value for your car on trade, but you will have an funds equal to the fair market value to allow you to be in a better position to bargain. You should get sales tax and registration credit with your settlement and should only have to pay the tax on the amount greater than your settlement amount.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 1:00 am   Post subject:   

Sorry thought I was logged in.



One way to look at it is that you are getting fair market value of your vehicle. If you were looking to trade in at the present time, you would only get credit for trade in value of your vehicle (substantially less) on the purchase of a new or newer purchase. A dealer would never give you the fair market value for your car on trade, but you will have funds equal to the fair market value to allow you to be in a better position to bargain. You should get sales tax and registration credit with your settlement and should only have to pay the tax on the amount greater than your settlement amount.



I just saw a commercial on tv for Liberty Mutual on a deer hit that was pretty clever. The car was totalled and the deer was limping away nearly unbruised. They are offering replacment guarantee coverage on new cars I would suppose. The man goes to the back of the car and opens the lift gate and yanks out a complete replica of the car he just totaled. Probably had to be there to appreciate it. Many insurers are adopting policies of trying to settle claims more amicably in recent months in an attempt to retain policy holders. Hopefully they will treat you fairly in their offer for settlement.

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MikeoftheOzarks
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Posts: 605

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 3:09 am   Post subject:   

Quote:
Probably had to be there to appreciate it. Many insurers are adopting policies of trying to settle claims more amicably in recent months in an attempt to retain policy holders. Hopefully they will treat you fairly in their offer for settlement.




This service isn't really new. It has always been part of a policy one can purchase. It's just lately, companies have been pushing it to make customers and potential customers aware and to make it an attractive portion for a policy because of the high cost of replacing new vehicles.
Trench
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 4:32 pm   Post subject: Thanks, and an update!  

The appraiser came by, was nice and fair on the appraisal, estimated damages at under 50% of the value (based on numbers, his appraisal was in the 7.4K ballpark - right on, MikeOfTheOzarks!)



So she'll be repaired and likely live to see another day (or more)! Nice not to be forced to car shop, and I certainly hope nothing untoward shows up when the hood is finally opened up by the body shop after they tow it off.



Appreciate the help, folks, and I'll keep you updated, if you're following along Smile


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tishoo
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 4:35 pm   Post subject: Sorry, an additional question - remove roof bike rack?  

The appraiser confirmed the car would likely be put on a 'frame machine' and inspected for further issues.



Should I remove the roof bike rack (An after-market Thule - it has locks on it) before sending it off to the body shop, or should I just include the key in case they need/ plan to remove it?


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